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Umami is one of the primarily basic tastes<\/h6>\n

Identified by a team of University of Miami researchers in 1996, umami is our fifth taste \u2014 the long-lost counterpart of four other tastes with which we are far more familiar, sweet, salty, sour and bitter. Since the research team published its findings in 2000, umami has seized the interest of other scientists, health professionals, food manufacturers and chefs around the world.\u00a0Many people struggle to define umami, often calling it savory, meaty or rich. They try to explain it by referring to food examples of umami: a golden chicken soup, roasted shiitake mushrooms or navy beans simmered with the bone of a well-cured ham.\u00a0Even though it wouldn\u2019t be any easier to describe salty or sweet without referring to the way those tastes are\u00a0represented in certain foods, umami comes off as somehow more exotic. That explains why some consumers are compelled and others leery about the sudden wave of interest in all things umami.\u00a0\u201cSome people think of umami as a newfangled, overly scientific term that they don\u2019t need,\u201d says Fuchsia Dunlop, author of Land of Plenty (W. W. Norton, 2003) \u2014 a Sichuan cookbook \u2014 and an expert on both cooking and current events in China. \u201cBut I think it\u2019s tremendously useful because it explains so much of what we already know about traditional cooking. We\u2019re just using the Japanese word for it. That makes it sound foreign, but it\u2019s not foreign at all.\u201d<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

What Is Umami?<\/strong><\/h6>\n

As far back as 3,000 years ago, Greeks and Romans were carefully boosting what we now know as the umami in their foods by using a condiment made from fermented fish sauce. In 1825, in his famous treatise The Physiology of Taste, French gastronome Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin offered the word \u201cosmasome\u201d for rich, meaty tastes, and he predicted that future chemists would probably figure out what triggered it. Finally, in the 20th century, Japanese chemist Kikunae Ikeda hung a lasting moniker on the taste and determined its source.\u00a0In 1908, Ikeda began trying to replicate the flavor of a traditional soup he made from boiled kombu (one of the sea vegetables often called seaweed) and dried tuna. He mixed together salty, sweet, bitter and sour, but it was something altogether different. In his lab, he finally managed to isolate the substance that gave the broth its distinctive taste: glutamate, the most plentiful of the 20 amino acids that make up proteins.\u00a0Ikeda named the taste of glutamate \u201cumami,\u201d most simply translated as \u201cdelicious.\u201d<\/strong><\/em> (The flavor enhancer monosodium glutamate, or MSG, is the sodium salt of glutamate. Comprising water, sodium and glutamate, MSG acts on the same receptors as glutamate. For more, see \u201cMSG: Cooks\u2019 Cocaine?\u201d in the sidebar.)\u00a0Other scientists soon built upon Ikeda\u2019s discovery with new revelations. Not only do other amino acids trigger this deliciousness, but there is also a second group of compounds that build the effect. These are nucleotides, the molecular building blocks of RNA and DNA, found in a wide range of foods, including shellfish, pork and mushrooms. They impart some umami on their own, but more important, they magnify the umami of foods rich in glutamates and other amino acids \u2014 foods like chicken, tomatoes, aged cheeses, fresh corn and almonds.\u00a0When nucleotide-rich foods are added to foods rich in amino acids, the result is a flavorful synergy that heightens the drama.\u00a0\u201cThat\u2019s the key to umami cooking,\u201d<\/strong> <\/em>says chef David Kasabian, coauthor with his wife, Anna, of The Fifth Taste: Cooking with Umami (Universe, 2005), a virtual umami bible with scientific explanations, recipes from America\u2019s top chefs, and the Kasabians\u2019 own umami-accelerated versions of classics like meatloaf and chicken in wine. \u201cWhen you put the basic umami and the synergizing umami together, the effect isn\u2019t just additive \u2014 it\u2019s multiplied. A basic tomato sauce has lots of umami, but when you add mushrooms, it has considerably more.\u201d<\/p>\n

Umami Flavor<\/h6>\n

Over the course of the past decade, scientists have discovered receptors housed in our taste buds that respond specifically to umami, just as there are receptors for sweet, salty, sour and bitter. When these receptors bind to glutamates and certain other amino acids and nucleotides, they send a signal to the brain. That signal combines with signals triggered by savory aromas to create a highly pleasant sensation concentrated in the orbitofrontal cortex, the section of the brain right above the eyes.\u00a0\u201cUmami is a separate taste quality mediated by separate receptors, \u201cAnd we like the taste. It\u2019s a savory, yummy quality.\u201d\u00a0<\/strong><\/em>The fact that our bodies are designed to recognize and enjoy umami tells us that foods with naturally occurring umami are good for us. \u201cThere aren\u2019t that many taste receptors in the mouth, so one has to assume that there\u2019s a long-term biological interest in detecting umami,\u00a0Our sense of taste is a highly evolved mechanism that signals what we should and should not eat. All humans respond positively to the taste of sweets because sweet foods are a reliable source of calories. We may wish we could turn off this particular mechanism when coworkers leave a platter of brownies near the coffeemaker, but our foraging forebears relied on the instinctual preference for sweets to identify good sources of\u00a0food energy.<\/p>\n

We respond positively to the taste for salt because it contains minerals that help our bodies maintain a proper electrolyte balance.<\/p>\n

We respond negatively \u2014 at least as infants \u2014 to bitter and sour, because\u00a0those tastes warned early humans that something might be poisonous, unripe or spoiled. As adults, most of us enjoy bitter and sour flavors in small quantities that help heighten or highlight other flavors and aromas.\u00a0Many researchers now believe that humans developed a taste for umami because it signals the presence of protein. The foods packing the greatest umami punch are the ones that provide proteins broken down into free amino acids. These \u201cfree\u201d glutamates and other amino acids are created by fermenting, aging, toasting, roasting, braising, stewing \u2014 any process that breaks complete proteins into their constituent parts.\u00a0Thus, an aged steak has more umami than a fresh one; raw eggs have umami but considerably more when cooked; winter squash goes wild with umami when slowly\u00a0roasted. But some foods such as corn and peas are packed with umami when fresh. (For more foods teeming with umami, see \u201cUmami Shopping List,\u201d in the sidebar.)\u00a0When we eat whole proteins, our digestive systems burn a lot of energy breaking them down into amino acids. The amino acids in umami-rich foods are already in a free state, so they are more quickly and easily digested than complete proteins. As the Kasabians put it, \u201cUmami is the taste of amino acids that are ready for our bodies to use.\u201d The free glutamates are immediately put to work in the intestines, where they fuel the overall digestive process.<\/p>\n

Mindful Eating and Umami<\/h6>\n

Understanding these umami mechanisms isn\u2019t just interesting \u2014 it\u2019s useful, says Edmund Rolls, DSc, a professor at the Oxford Centre for Computational Neuroscience, who researches taste mechanisms and the brain. \u201cMany people are interested in knowing what makes food palatable,\u201d says Rolls, in part because this helps \u201cpromote the eating of good food at the expense of unhealthy foods.\u201d\u00a0Understanding the science of cuisine is important in this regard, he explains, because it helps us develop food preparations that are appropriate. \u201cFor instance,\u201d he says, \u201csome people don\u2019t like the taste of nutritionally good foods like green vegetables, but you can enhance the flavor of these foods by adding umami.\u201d\u00a0By choosing foods that taste good \u2014 and understanding how to make them taste even better \u2014 we\u2019re simply relying on the body\u2019s basic wisdom to maintain a balanced diet and a healthy weight. Jacqueline Marcus, RD, a nutritionist who practices in Northfield, Ill., points out that we are born with basic instincts telling us which foods are good for us and how much we need to eat of them. Just watch how a baby gulps umami-rich breast milk, then pushes away from the mother when full.\u00a0\u201cThe umami taste helps provide you with the sensation of being fed,\u201d says Marcus, who\u2019s been researching and working with umami for 12 years. \u201cThat\u2019s essential in weight management. Foods with umami flavor are satisfying to the palate and support satiety, or fullness.\u201d\u00a0In a culture looking for ways to amplify eating pleasures without amplifying its already significant weight problems, that\u2019s umami wisdom worth trying.\u00a0This article has been updated. It originally appeared in the May 2012 issue of Experience Life magazine.<\/p>\n

Umami Foods<\/h6>\n

Umami-rich foods are delicious on their own and can also make healthy foods like basic vegetables and legumes taste more enticing.\u00a0In The Fifth Taste: Cooking with Umami (Universe, 2005), chef David Kasabian and his journalist wife, Anna, break down umami ingredients into two groups: basic umami (foods that impart umami through amino acids like glutamates) and synergizing umami (foods that add some umami and, especially, amplify the umami taste of the first group). Many foods have both basic and synergizing umami compounds. Here are a few examples:<\/p>\n

Basic Umami<\/h6>\n

Corn, peas, tomatoes, red bell peppers, winter squash\u00a0Almonds, walnuts and other\u00a0tree nuts\u00a0Sea vegetables,\u00a0Duck, turkey, chicken (especially mature birds and dark meat), fresh and cured pork products (which are also synergizing), aged steaks,\u00a0Aged and blue-veined cheeses,\u00a0Fin fish (especially smoked, dried or pickled), fish sauce, and shellfish (which are also synergizing)<\/p>\n

Fermented soy products like<\/p>\n

soy sauce, tempeh and miso,\u00a0Legumes,\u00a0Black olives,\u00a0Pickled plums (ume) and many other pickled vegetables and fruits<\/p>\n

Synergizing Umami<\/p>\n

Mushrooms, truffles and other fungi \u2014 the darker, the better,\u00a0Pork, beef, lamb, turkey\u00a0and chicken,\u00a0Shellfish, especially oysters\u00a0and uni (sea urchin),\u00a0Darker-fleshed fin fish such as tuna, mackerel and salmon,\u00a0Many sea vegetables, including nori and wakame<\/p>\n

MSG: Cooks’ Cocaine?<\/h6>\n

Monosodium glutamate (MSG),<\/strong> <\/em>the much-maligned flavor additive, has been at the center of a food controversy for years. Here\u2019s what you need to know to make up your own mind about whether to enjoy MSG or avoid it.\u00a0Shortly after chemist Kikunae Ikeda discovered that glutamates were the source of the deliciousness \u2014 what he dubbed the umami \u2014 in his soup, a Japanese company used his patent to manufacture a substance that would change cuisines around the world: monosodium glutamate. U.S. food manufacturers began incorporating MSG into a wide variety of processed foods in the 1930s and \u201940s. Restaurants and home cooks also sprinkled it liberally.\u00a0Then, in the 1960s, MSG experienced a public-relations disaster. The New England Journal of Medicine printed a letter from a physician who said that he and his friends felt dizzy and headachy after eating in Chinese restaurants and suggested that MSG might be the cause.\u00a0Subsequent studies supported this conjecture, but most involved injecting rats with massive doses of MSG \u2014 far more than a person would ever eat. Some studies have not found any evidence that MSG poses a problem to most people who eat normally. Scientists who study umami insist that MSG is the same as the naturally occurring free glutamates that are found in food.\u00a0Still, many health-conscious and food-sensitive individuals remain wary of MSG, noting that eating it makes them feel dehydrated, brain fogged, puffy or headachy. Those who suffer from migraines, chemical sensitivities or ADD\/ADHD are often counseled by their health professionals to stay away from MSG at all costs. And many culinary experts see MSG as a cheap stand-in for high-quality ingredients and good preparation \u2014 the mark of a compromised food product or dish.\u00a0\u201cMSG is a shortcut to good taste,\u201d says Chinese cooking expert Fuchsia Dunlop. \u201cPeople often take greasy, junky food and add MSG to make it appealing. I call it the \u2018cook\u2019s cocaine.\u201d\u00a0<\/strong><\/em>Some processed foods that don\u2019t contain MSG are full of other substances that deliver free glutamates: textured protein, sodium caseinate, hydrolyzed yeast and many more. Like MSG, the presence of such ingredients may indicate that whatever natural flavor these foods might once have had can no longer stand on their own. \u201cProcessed food is so handled and heated and stored that the natural amino acids are gone,\u201d says David Kasabian, who with his wife, Anna, wrote The Fifth Taste: Cooking with Umami (Universe, 2005). \u201cThey have to include these ingredients to compensate for that loss.\u201d\u00a0<\/strong><\/em>Maggie Ward, RD, nutrition director of the UltraWellness Center in Lenox, Mass., says it\u2019s best to get your umami from natural ingredients. \u201cMy preference is that people eat whole foods for health and healing,\u201d Ward says. \u201cThe glutamates in MSG are not the way nature presented them, and I think people are much better off enjoying umami from natural sources like fish sauce, seaweed and shiitake mushrooms.\u201d<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

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